Q: How many Africans can fit into a van?

A: One more.

This notion of sharing limited resources with an unlimited number of people is central to the Anuak people, if not most of Africa.  “Anuak” as a word, means “to share.”  This is one of those classic “paradigm shifts” that wait for Westerners who linger here long enough.  It is like you show up at something that looks and feels like a track meet, so you dutifully line up and wait for the gun.  When the gun goes off you sprint ahead.  About half way around the track you look back because you don’t sense that anyone else is running.  Far behind, you see a mass of Africans moving together as a group – some even carrying others.  No one is left behind and no one is too far ahead.

It was explained to me that generally Westerners value results and Africans value relationships.  For example I am here to get a well restored and a cement block making project going so I naturally get frustrated by the many meals, meetings and discussions about this work when there is no movement towards action – not even a “getting ready to get ready” sensation.  Sometimes I think someone back in the states has gone way out of their way for an elaborate, well orchestrated practical joke – a type of candid camera – that won’t end until I “lose it” and that moment gets televised.

I suppose I am not coming across so well here.  I’m likely interpreted as abrupt and inpatient. I look about the room and see that these people deeply enjoy the presence of one another, and though the material circumstances (on an absolute basis) can be judged to be woeful – you can’t help but envy the friendships (even among the professional rivals) and the good natured, mirthful exchanges about even the most trivial of things.  I am learning how to enjoy just being with people for the sake of nothing else.  If you think about it, what else truly, really matters?

Two weeks ago I found a great “2” block making machine (i.e. it makes 2 cement blocks at a time) well outside of Addis for 28,000 Ethiopian Birr. 

I was ready to buy it.  However the chief back in Gambella had suggested instead that I meet with his brother-in-law who said that he could get us a “4” block machine for 18,000 Birr.  After several days of phone conversations, we finally got to meet this elusive machine yesterday.  We found it at the end of an alley, next to a variety of other items that looked like they had been (at some point in their history) refrigerators, cement mixers, bank safes and possibly even aircraft engines.

Without going into the technical details (it did not have a motor), it was a markedly less sophisticated piece of equipment and, alas, could really only make 2 blocks at a time.  "But you see, if you do the process twice, you will make four block; so in this way it can be considered a a 4 block machine, actually."  Further the price had been misquoted, it was 25,000 Birr.  So we called the other place and set up an appointment for Thursday to go buy it.  They said it will take 4 weeks to get the machine ready but to come for tea and bring a deposit.

When I requested the check from the book keeper here, he asked if I had done a pro-forma evaluating at least three different options.  He further suggested that we convene a meeting to discuss the merits of the three different proposals.  "Jonathan, it is best if you get these proposals submitted in writing."  I didn't hear what else he said as I was preoccupied looking around his office for the hidden camera.